Aveda and Keracol Limited’s Novel Hair Color Tracking Method Published In Heliyon

A study on hair color tracking method by Aveda, a leader in sustainable innovation in hair care, and Keracol Limited — a company founded by academic researchers specializing in color chemistry and sustainability at the University of Leeds — has been published in peer-reviewed journal Heliyon.

The study introduces an innovative measurement method that correlates dye molecular desorption with hair color shifts, irrespective of hair type and texture or background color. By enabling a deeper molecular-level understanding of how hair interacts with dye molecules, this new extraction technique paves the way for the development of innovative testing methods and advanced hair color technologies.

Fading Color Remains a Challenge

Hair dyeing is a global practice embraced in salons and at home, yet fading color remains a common challenge for consumers. Until now, most assessments of hair color and its longevity have relied on Spectrophotometric color analysis, which only measures bulk properties. These methods fail to capture the complex chemistry and interactions between dye molecules and the hair fiber itself, officials said. This poses the question, “What happens beneath the surface when hair dye fades?”

“We adapted advanced dye-analysis techniques that were originally created for examining historical textile artefacts in museums,” said Dr. Richard Blackburn, professor of sustainable materials at the University of Leeds and a co-founder of Keracol Limited. “It’s exciting that we’ve been able to use knowledge from heritage conservation for cutting-edge contemporary application. Building on a decade of collaboration with Aveda, we have established this unique analytical method that goes beyond visual assessments to reveal molecular-level insights.”

The method uses a specialized solvent mixture of water and pyridine to extract dye molecules from hair in a variety of colors, textures, and conditions, including blonde, grey, black curly, and bleached blonde samples. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis of these extracts tracks dye retention across different hair properties giving us added insight into factors that influence color longevity and overall hair fiber health.

“This is a new approach to understanding hair dye on different hair types and textures, which will give us insight into new breakthrough technology in formulations and technology,” said Dr. Jeanna Zguris, executive director of haircare innovation and analytical at Aveda. “It’s incredibly exciting because it gives us deeper insight into not just dye retention but also how hair color formulation can interact with and impact the overall health of the hair fiber. This knowledge can lead to longer-lasting, more vibrant color with less damage, empowering consumers to keep their hair beautiful and strong for longer.”